The Legendary Highway 1 Reopens

Stretching along California’s dramatic coastline from Monterey/Carmel to San Simeon/Cambria-by-the-Sea is one of the world’s most iconic road trips. But for the last two-and-a-half years, it’s been impossible to enjoy the 100 magical miles in their entirety. That’s because the Regent’s Slide, a massive earth movement, closed a nearly seven-mile section of road just south of the village of Big Sur. The $82 million repair was one of Caltrans’ biggest road jobs in its history.

Repair crews worked 24/7 to stabilize the roadbed by removing more than half a million cubic yards of material.  Now we can all once again enjoy California’s “mini-Yosemite,” Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, which is home to the southernmost stand of giant coastal redwoods. 

By the way, if you’re looking for a place to truly go “off the grid,” Big Sur Highway is the place. Cell phone coverage is extremely limited but there are a couple of pockets along the way that have some coverage, such as the lobby of the Big Sur Lodge and the parking lots at the iconic Nepenthe Restaurant and Henry Miller Memorial Library.

We began our exploration of Big Sur country at the southern end of the famous region in the small town of San Simeon, the gateway to the William Randolph Hearst mansion which sits on a hill nearly two thousand feet high in the lush Santa Lucia mountains. Hearst Castle, as it’s known is one of California’s most popular tourist attractions. The California State Parks does a great job maintaining the Castle while the Hearst family controls 84,000 acres surrounding the structures on the hill. We had an amazing 90-minute tour of the castle’s “great rooms,” and they are truly great! Do not miss this attraction! There is a lot of walking and steps, but if you have mobility challenges, I suggest the “accessibility tour.” This tour is limited to four people and a small golf cart transports you around the massive property. Reservations are required and available on the California State Parks website. 

Just north of San Simeon is a must-do stop on Highway 1. It’s the resting beach for an Elephant Seal colony. These amazing creatures need lots of rest in the sun before their month-long spring trek to British Columbia and even the faraway Aleutian Islands. After paying our respects to the gentle giants, it was time to stretch our legs at San Carpoforo Creek Beach, a fun place to explore, especially at low tide. Just north of the Highway 1 bridge at San Carpoforo Creek, a small pull-out parking area with a fence and a gate exists. Beyond the gate is a half-mile trail that leads down to San Carpoforo Creek and eventually the beach.

During our one-week Big Sur Country sojourn, we stayed at two delightful properties. In the past fifty years, I have stayed at more than six different hotels in Cambria and its famous Moonstone Beach. Somehow, I had missed the best spot in the area! Just north of Cambria, in San Simeon is Cavalier Oceanfront Resort. Room 177 offers incredible views and the sounds of giant waves breaking on the beach literally steps from our patio. An added bonus at the Cavalier is the restaurant, Cavalier Coastal Kitchen, where everything is made from scratch, including the massive cinnamon buns. 

We also went off the grid for two nights at Ragged Point Inn, located at the southernmost tip of the Big Sur Highway. This owner-operated property checks all the boxes including amazing views, a five-star chef in the kitchen, and Big Sur’s best gift shop. Remember: there is no cell coverage or Wi-Fi at the property. 

To get to Big Sur Country, we flew American Airlines via Phoenix to the easy-to-navigate San Luis Obispo Airport, which is about 45 minutes south of Cambria and San Simeon.